About Peaks

Baintha Brakk, also known as The Ogre, is a magnificent peak situated in the Karakoram range of Pakistan. With an impressive elevation of 7,285 meters (23,901 feet), it stands as a formidable challenge for mountaineers from around the world. The Ogre gained its iconic reputation primarily due to its extreme technical difficulty and the treacherous nature of its routes. Its steep, rocky faces demand expert climbing skills, making it a coveted target for experienced climbers seeking an adrenaline-filled adventure. The mountain's name, "The Ogre," is fitting, as it embodies a sense of awe-inspiring power and untamed wilderness. The towering presence of Baintha Brakk against the backdrop of the Karakoram range creates a majestic and intimidating sight. Not only does the mountain present a physical challenge, but it also poses significant risks due to its harsh and unforgiving environment. Climbers must contend with unpredictable weather conditions, including high winds, heavy snowfall, and sudden storms. These factors contribute to the mountain's allure, drawing those who are willing to push the limits of human endurance and skill. Baintha Brakk gained international attention in 1977 when it was successfully summited for the first time by a British team led by Sir Chris Bonington. This historic achievement added to the mountain's mystique and cemented its reputation as one of the most challenging peaks in the world. The Ogre continues to attract elite climbers who seek to test their abilities and conquer its unforgiving terrain. Its remote location, technical difficulty, and sheer beauty make it an alluring destination for those who are passionate about mountaineering. However, it is crucial to emphasize that climbing Baintha Brakk should only be attempted by highly experienced mountaineers with extensive knowledge, technical skills, and proper equipment. The mountain demands respect and careful planning to ensure a safe and successful ascent. Baintha Brakk, with its soaring heights and formidable challenges, remains an emblem of the extraordinary beauty and adventure that the world's highest peaks have to offer.

Tour Highlights

Critical Warning & Context This is not a typical 7000m peak. The Ogre features:

Extreme technical climbing:Mixed rock and ice up to UIAA Grade V+/6a and Scottish Grade VI.
Objective hazards:Severe serac fall danger, avalanches, and unpredictable weather.
Remote and complex descent:The first descent in 1977 took Doug Scott and Chris Bonington over a week with broken bones.
Minimal infrastructure:No fixed ropes, no reliable cell service, no rescue. Full self-sufficiency is mandatory.

Technical Climbing & Safety Gear (The Core Kit)

This is where you cannot compromise on quality or quantity.

Ice Axes:Two technical ice tools (e.g., Petzl Nomic, Quark) with ergonomic grips for sustained vertical ice and mixed climbing.
Crampons:Fully rigid, horizontal front-point crampons (e.g., Petzl Dart, Lynx) with anti-balling plates. Must fit your boots perfectly.
Helmet:Lightweight, ventilated climbing helmet.
Harness:Alpine climbing harness with gear loops, adjustable leg loops for layering.
Ropes:Twin/Double Ropes (e.g., 2x 8.0-8.5mm dry ropes, 60m) for rappelling and technical pitches. A single static line for fixing difficult sections may be considered.
Protection Gear:
- Ice Screws:10-14 screws of various lengths (10-22cm).
- Rock Protection:Set of nuts (Stoppers), cams (from small to #3), pitons (2-4), knifeblade pitons for thin cracks.
- Snow/Deadman Anchors:2-3 snow flukes or T-slot anchors.
Carabiners:15-20 locking carabiners (mostly screwgate), 20+ non-locking.
Slings & Cord:Multiple nylon/Dynema slings (60cm, 120cm), 5-6m of 6mm cord for rappel anchors.
Ascenders & Descenders:Two ascenders (like Petzl Ascension) for jumaring fixed lines. Two descenders (e.g., Petzl Reverso, ATC Guide) for rappelling.
Personal Anchor System:120cm dyneema sling or dedicated PAS.
Climbing Hardware:Pulley for crevasse rescue, prusik cords.

Tour Itinarary

Arrival at airport and then transfer to hotel. Overnight stay in hotel at Islamabad.

Early morning flight to Skardu (flights are subject to weather), if unable to fly we will depart for Skardu by road with overnight stay at Chilas. Overnight stay in hotel at Skardu.

In case of flight has operated we will go for sightseeing tour of Skardu and in case no flight, the day will be used for over land travel from Chilas to Skardu (total drive is 22 – 24 hrs from Islamabad to Skardu). Overnight stay in hotel at Skardu.

The day is to finalize the expedition arrangements. Overnight stay in hotel at Skardu.

The participants of Baintha Brakk expedition will begin the jeep safari towards Daso, the passage will go through the Shigar valley. The journey will be followed on the sides of Braldu river which extends to Askole. Askole will be the last village on our route; the members of the expedition will start walking after leaving jeeps behind. However at times the participants may begin their walk before arrival in Askole but it depends on the road conditions. Overall it will take you between six hours to eight hours in covering the distance.

After completion of necessary supplies list and equipment the porters will load up for the trek ahead to Jhola. The valley is gateway to Biafo glacier that flow over fifty kms from Hispar La to Braldu. The participants will experience the moraine walking as the snout of the glacier is crossed and they will descend to lunch spot beside the Korofon river. The route will take us the confluence of rivers of Braldu and Domordo. The trail will lead us to go upstream where the participants of Baintha Brakk expedition will cross the river by bridge. On the other side of the bridge the participants will ascend towards domordo river until we reach Namla Camp, on the descend to the edge of Braldu river, Jhola cam lies.

The participants of Baintha Brakk expedition will start the trek towards mango campsite. They will be trekking along dumurdo river in opposite direction of the flow. The participants will have the lunch midway and will camp at Mango.

The participants of bainth brakk expedition will arrive to the base camp on this and will set up base camp that is suitable for the group along with the consent of our guide. Once, the participants reaches the camp, dinner will be served and night stay in tents. The base camp of Latok Peaks and Biantha Brakk are not far from each other.

On this day the participants will acclimatize while sorting out their equipment's. While, the team of Apricot Tours will set up the base camp and the porter's will trek back as well.

The participants will have 16 days to climb the peak.

The team along with the staff of Apricot Tours will leave base camp of Baintha Brakk and trek back down. They will trek back down by dumurdo rive to namla. The duration of the trek will be 8-9 hrs as on the next day the participants will be trekking back to Askoli valley Valley.

On this day the participants of the Baintha Brakk expedition will be back to Askole village after walking up the side of the river to the bridge.The participants will give get to meet climbers and trekkers at Askoli campsite as well.

The participants will drive back to the hotel in Skardu along with the team of Apricot Tours. Making tea stop at Dasso, and lunch stop in Shigar Baazar.

On this day the participants will take a flight from the airport in Skardu to Islamabad airport. You will have a good time to relax at the hotel in Islamabad. The domestic flights sometime get cancelled due to weather conditions. In case of flight cancellation, you will drive to Raikot or Chilas for overnight. It takes 10 hours by a vehicle.

This day is allocated for any potential delays in case the domestic flight does not operate the previous day. Our guests will depart early morning from Chilas to Islamabad which can take up to ten hours. However it will be a free day in case the participants make it to Islamabad on the domestic flight. This time can be utilized for sightseeing in Islamabad.

Our staff will transfer all the members of Baintha Brakk Expedition to the airport on their respective departure timings. The checkout time of all our partner hotels is 12 pm.