Hassan Jan

Hassan Jan is a preeminent Pakistani mountaineer, esteemed expedition leader, and dedicated rescuer, widely celebrated for his extraordinary accomplishments in the formidable peaks of the Karakoram and Himalayan ranges. Renowned for his exceptional strength and endurance at high altitude, he has successfully summited five of the world's fourteen 8,000-meter peaks without supplemental oxygen.

Born and raised in the majestic yet rugged terrain of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan, Hassan Jan developed an intrinsic connection with the mountains from an early age. This deep-rooted passion evolved into a lifelong pursuit, cementing his status as one of the most accomplished and respected climbers of his generation.

Founder of the Gondogoro La Rescue Team

Demonstrating a profound commitment to the mountaineering community, Hassan Jan founded the Gondogoro La Rescue Team in 1999. This pioneering initiative was the first organized rescue service in the region and has been instrumental in saving the lives of countless local and international climbers and trekkers in distress. His visionary leadership in this critical humanitarian effort has earned him widespread recognition and respect beyond his climbing accolades.

Climbing Career and Notable Achievements

Hassan Jan's illustrious mountaineering career is distinguished by a series of significant ascents and leadership roles:

• 2002: Summited Gasherbrum II (8,035 m) with Janees Hasoda Achora Sang.

• 2003: Achieved a winter ascent of Broad Peak (8,051 m) with Junitu. Also summited Gasherbrum I (8,080 m) and Gasherbrum II in the same year.

• 2004: Reached the summit of K2 (8,611 m) with Spanish climber Edurne Pasaban.

• 2005: Summited Nanga Parbat (8,126 m) with Edurne Pasaban.

• 2006: Ascended Soli Peak (Slopii).

• 2007: Summited Broad Peak for a second time.

• 2008: Climbed Spantik (7,027 m).

• 2009: Re-summitted Nanga Parbat with Mr. Kim Jiso and a Korean team.

• 2013: Led a Pakistani team to the summit of Broad Peak as the expedition leader.

• 2014: Successfully summited K2 while leading his own team.

• 2016: Led the Pak-French Joint Expedition to Gasherbrum II.

• 2017: Organized and led the first-ever Pakistani women’s expedition.

• 2018: Summited Spantik with a Pakistani expedition.

• 2019: Climbed Barganchu Peak with a Swiss team.

• 2021: Summited Gasherbrum I with Italian mountaineer Marco Confortola.

Leadership and Enduring Legacy

Beyond his impressive summit record, Hassan Jan is revered for his exemplary leadership, unwavering courage, and steadfast commitment to advancing the sport of mountaineering in Pakistan. He has generously mentored and guided climbers from around the world, contributed to the development of mountain safety protocols, and been a pivotal figure in promoting Pakistani mountaineering talent on the global stage.

Through his unparalleled achievements and selfless dedication to saving lives, Hassan Jan has brought great honor to his nation and has secured an enduring legacy in the annals of Karakoram mountaineering history. His life and work continue to inspire aspiring climbers in Pakistan and across the globe.